This is the second part of the Ultimate Europe Tour series – in the last part we headed south through France and into Switzerland, taking in some spectacular Swiss Alpine passes. We left off at the Nufenen Pass in Switzerland which peaks at 2478m above sea level.
At the eastern end of the Nufenen Pass, head southbound towards the Italian town of Como, situated on Lake Como. Unfortunately the lake can be mobbed during summer, but it is an absolutely gorgeous area, and the town Como itself is a lovely old walled town. Parking can be an issue in Como itself though, so I’d recommend staying nearby rather than in it.
I’d then carry on to Bellagio along the lake side and make sure you visit the northern end of the fork in the lake, it’s a superb view, especially at sunset. You’ll also be able to see the villa used in the Bond film Casino Royale on the opposite side of the Lake on the way there. Be very wary of the road here, it can get quite narrow and Italian drivers are not known for their mercy or hesitancy. Head down the eastern fork now and then back up along the eastern side of the lake and you’ll find the headquarters of a famous motorcycle marque – Moto Guzzi. You’ll find a museum filled with their classic models, and the guided tour is completely free to attend – it’d be rude not to go! Carry on up the eastern side of Lake Como and you’ll be on your way to what Top Gear once called the greatest driving road in the world – the Stelvio Pass.
The Stelvio Pass is the second highest paved mountain pass in the Alps, and the view from the top down its eastern side is like nothing else; hairpins squiggling beneath you. I wouldn’t agree that it’s the best riding road in the world; it’s often busy and hairpins can get tiresome, but for sheer spectacle on a clear day it’s hard to beat.
Onwards from the Stelvio Pass and into the Italian city of Bolzano, or Bolzen – an anomaly of Italian-ness in an otherwise predominantly German speaking region. Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, it makes a good stop to head north into Austria.
Your first stop in Austria will be Innsbruck, a lovely city nestled in the mountains which you’ll be itching to take on. You’re on your way east now for one single reason, the Grossglockner Pass – my favourite mountain pass in the Alps.
Head toward Zell Am See which is at the northern end of the pass, situated on a gorgeous lake and in itself worth a short stop. Head south and you’ll hit a toll booth – there’s unfortunately a hefty toll for the privilege of riding this road, it currently stands at 25.50€ per motorcycle, but I would consider it worth it. The road surface is sublime throughout, and it has corners and hairpins that can be ridden at speed. The views are to die for (just make sure you don’t actually die, there are no barriers for most of the road!) and there’s even a hotel on the pass which is well worth staying in. The pass closes overnight, and technically you’re meant to pay for a second day if you stay in the hotel, but there are no checks on leaving the pass so you can just pay for the single day. Included with the toll is a sticker which you can proudly place on your bike.
Southbound from the Grossglockner now, with the next stop being Venice, or Venezia. Venice needs no introduction – it lives up to expectations, but be warned that it is a huge tourist magnet. My personal recommendation would be to stay in a town nearby (Mogliano Veneto is a good bet) and get the train into the centre of Venice, leaving all your sweaty bike gear behind. You can get water taxis or ferries along the canals – with ferries being cheaper but not as convenient. Walking everywhere is perfectly feasible though, and you’ll see more of the buildings as you go around. Piazza San Marco is where many people aim for and is well worth a visit, as well as the Rialto Bridge.
Venice is generally very expensive with tourists traps everywhere, so don’t expect bang for your buck here. If you’re with a significant other then taking a ride on a gondola will seem appropriate, but beware the steep cost – there’s no denying it is a nice way to travel though, with nothing quite like it (our immaculately dressed gondolier on his iPhone did shatter the illusion a little though!).
In the next part we'll head down into Italy proper and take in some mind-boggling history and motorcycle heritage, with Rome and the Ducati Factory on the hit list.
